French toast is an underappreciated comfort food.

Think of putting together a nice breakfast spread and the first choices for a bread item often are biscuits, waffles, pancakes or toast, said Donna Kelly. The author of “French Toast: Sweet and Savory Treats for Every Meal” has a different starch in mind.

Still, Kelly doesn’t like to see the dish pigeon-holed as a breakfast food. Variations of French toast are just as tasty for lunch and dinner.

“I would just encourage people to experiment with it because French toast is really just bread and custard. Those are the only two requirements. Anything else that you want to make is fair game,” said Kelly of Provo, Utah.

Because bread and custard are so neutral, they are a good foundation whether you want to make sweet or savory French toast, Kelly said.

The variations can be in the mixture the bread is soaked in, coated with, topped with or stuffed with, said Don Sexauer, chef and director of the culinary program at Nash Community College. You could batter and fry sandwiches, slit open the toast and stuff it with peanut butter or puree berries into the mixture in which the bread will be soaked.

“People take French toast as a side item; they will get their eggs and their bacon, and they will get a side of French toast. To me, French toast should be the signature of your breakfast or whatever you are having. If you are doing French toast, make it become something spectacular,” Sexauer said.

You can jazz up a recipe by using different breads, including cinnamon swirl, Texas-style toast, an English muffin or cake, Kelly said. One of her family’s favorites is a recipe that calls for dipping and frying cornbread and topping it with chili. No matter what kind you use, it usually is best to use day-old bread so it will stay together better.

“You don’t want to get the bread out of the package and use it right away. I encourage people to leave it out overnight on a baking sheet and let it get nice and dry. That way it soaks up the custard the best,” Kelly said.

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BREAKFAST

French Toast Bread Pudding

Cooking spray

4 cups (about 8 slices) whole wheat bread, cut into 1-inch cubes

4 ounces reduced-fat cream cheese, softened

2 very ripe bananas, mashed

2 large eggs

2 egg whites

3/4 cup lowfat milk

3 tablespoons pure maple syrup

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Zest of one orange

1 tablespoon confectioners’ sugar

Lightly spray an 8-by-8-inch baking dish with cooking spray. Add the bread to the pan.

With a standing or handheld mixer, beat the cream cheese and bananas at medium speed until smooth. Add the egg and egg whites, one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Pour in the milk, maple syrup, vanilla and zest and mix until smooth. Pour the cream cheese mixture over the top of the bread; cover and refrigerate overnight.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Remove container from refrigerator, uncover and let sit about 15 minutes. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes or until a knife comes out clean and the center is set. Sift the confectioners’ sugar over the pudding, cut into squares and serve.

Recipe from “Cook Yourself Thin Faster” by Lauren Deen

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DESSERT

Chocolate Decadence Stacks

1 cup heavy cream, whipped

1/2 cup sugar

8 ounces whipped cream cheese, room temperature

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon gourmet cocoa powder, divided

3 large eggs

1 cup milk

1/2 teaspoon salt

12 (1/2-inch-thick) slices day-old angel food cake

8 ounces dark Swiss chocolate, grated

Using a hand mixer, mix the whipped cream, sugar, cream cheese, vanilla and 1/2 cup cocoa powder in a bowl; chill.

In a pie pan or other shallow pan, whisk together the eggs, milk, remaining cocoa powder and salt. Soak cake slices in egg mixture for about 30 seconds on each side. Heat a small frying pan sprayed with nonstick cooking spray to medium heat.

Place soaked cake slices in pan; cover and cook for two to three minutes on each side or until lightly browned. Remove and cool to slightly warm. Toast slices in a toaster and then cool to room temperature. Place a cake slice on a plate and spread a thick layer of cream cheese mixture over top. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon grated chocolate over cream cheese and then repeat for a second layer.

Makes six servings.

Recipe from “French Toast: Sweet & Savory Dished for Every Meal” by Donna Kelly

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BREAKFAST

Tropical Paradise

4 large eggs

1 14-ounce can coconut milk, shaken

1/2 cup apricot pineapple jam

1 teaspoon rum flavoring

4 cups corn flakes

1 cup diced macadamia nuts

1 cup sweetened coconut

8 slices day-old firm white bread

1 to 2 tablespoons butter

In a blender, mix together the eggs, coconut milk, jam and rum flavoring; pour mixture into a pie pan or other shallow pan.

In a food processor, pulse together corn flakes, nuts and coconut until they are coarse crumbs, then spread on a plate. Soak each bread slice in egg mixture for about one minute on each side. Press soaked bread into coconut mixture on each side. Melt butter in a small frying pan over medium heat and then place coated bread into pan. Cover and cook two to three minutes on each side, or until lightly browned and crisp. Serve with your favorite syrup.

Makes eight servings.

Recipe from “French Toast: Sweet & Savory Dished for Every Meal” by Donna Kelly

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SIDE ITEM

Savory Cheddar Crusted French Toast

2 large eggs

1 cup milk

1/2 cup sour cream

1/2 teaspoon salt

3 cups finely grated sharp cheddar cheese

1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1 tablespoon flour

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 tablespoon Italian seasonings

8 (1-inch-thick) slices day-old French bread

In a pie or other shallow pan, whisk together the eggs, milk, sour cream and salt until smooth.

In a bowl, toss the cheeses with flour, garlic powder and Italian seasonings. Soak bread slices in egg mixture for about 60 seconds on each side. Heat a small nonstick frying pan sprayed with nonstick cooking spray to medium high heat.

Place a soaked bread slice in pan and cook, uncovered, about two minutes or until lightly browned. Flip over with a wide spatula. Spread 2 tablespoons cheese mixture evenly on the cooked side of bread. After about two minutes, flip bread over again so that the cheese-covered side is facing down. Spread 2 tablespoons of cheese mixture evenly on side now facing up. After about two minutes, flip bread over. Cook another one to two minutes, or until the cheese on the other side is crisp and browned.

Makes eight servings.

Recipe from “French Toast: Sweet & Savory Dished for Every Meal” by Donna Kelly

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BREAKFAST

Stuffed French Toast

8 ounces cream cheese, softened

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/2 cup walnuts, chopped

16-ounce loaf French bread

4 eggs

1 cup whipping cream

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

12 ounces preserves, any flavor

1/2 cup orange juice

Beat together the cream cheese and 1/2 teaspoon vanilla until fluffy; set aside.

Cut bread into 10 to 12 11/2-inch slices and cut a pocket in the top of each. Fill each slice with 11/2 tablespoons of cheese mixture. Beat together the eggs, whipping cream, remaining 1/2 teaspoon vanilla and nutmeg.

Using tongs, dip the filled bread slices in egg mixture, being care not to squeeze out the filling. Cook on medium on a slightly greased griddle until both sides are golden brown. Keep cooked slices in a warm oven until are finished.

Meanwhile, heat preserves and orange juice in a saucepan on medium until well blended and warm. To serve, drizzle the mixture over hot French toast.

Makes six to eight servings.

Recipe from “The Best of Mayberry” by Betty Conley Lyerly